- Title
- CharlesTurgeon's talk to Harvard Student Medical Association
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- Creator (Person)
- ["Turgeon, Charles F."]
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- Creation Date (Original)
- March 23, 1971
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- Description
- Washington Star wine and food writer CharlesTurgeon addresses the Harvard chapter of the American Student Medical Association at their wine tasting party on March 23, 1971. He talks about the basics of wine tasting and wine appreciation.
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- Item Format or Genre
- ["speeches (compositions)"]
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- Language
- ["English"]
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- Subject (Topical)
- ["Wine and wine making","Wine"]
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- Digital Collection Name(s)
- ["California Wine Advisory Board and Wine Institute Collection"]
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- Digital Collections Identifier
- spc_00170_02_0005
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- Archival Collection Sort Name
- ["California Wine Advisory Board and Wine Institute collection, 1940-1977"]
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CharlesTurgeon's talk to Harvard Student Medical Association
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okay at all. I would like to welcome everyone to the Student american Medical Association's annual wine tasting party. I trust that thus far everyone has been enjoying himself. There's one thing I would like to see, I haven't seen anybody out there dancing, but I suppose as
00:00:38.470 - 00:01:02.150
soon as we get a little bit, a little bit more of this wine and we will take care of that, I've had a couple of questions, I've had a couple of questions asked about the varieties of wines that were supposed to have the owner of the
00:01:02.150 - 00:01:23.550
evening. As far as the winds are concerned, it's gonna be quite roses and reds. Now we have here with us tonight. Mr Charles sturgeon, the wine writer from the Washington star, who will at this point talk to us a little bit about the wines and probably
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ask uh answer that is a few questions that you might have to ask him as far as I'm concerned. Thank you. Do you want? I can not really. Oh thanks very much. I trust that you can all here. There are, it's gonna be a little difficult
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tonight to reach you in the various corners of the club but I hope that this will be a productive evening for ourselves and for hopefully California wine and who we're here to represent. I'm going to talk to you just for a few moments about the state
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of wine here in the country right now and how this might relate to you both in the wines that you're going to have here specifically this evening and in the wines that you might want to continue to use as time goes on, hopefully, perhaps on the
00:02:14.970 - 00:02:29.805
basis of what you come in contact with here tonight, we're all aware that there are any number of changes going on in this society of ours And not the least of those are some of those on the cultural front. And one of them is wine, wine
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is going on at a tremendous rate. Indeed. If you care to be bored by all the figures that were involved, we could make up virtually an evening of that. But that's very hard to do. And it doesn't isn't something that deserves all your time. But it
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suffice to say that wine consumption in the United States in the last 10 years has gone up by a factor of about well 50%, let's let's call it as an even figure. Now, that's an extraordinary rise and a real shift in the American cultural scene and
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there's no reason to believe that you shouldn't be a part of all that. Indeed, by your having a wine tasting here this evening, you are doing just exactly that. Thank you. That may make it easier. Now. I think it's worth asking a few questions of ourselves
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here as to what we're trying to accomplish after all, what is a wine tasting. We all can taste some wine pretty informally, indeed. That may be the best way to do it. But a wine tasting is at least two things, it is enjoyment. And if it
00:03:37.380 - 00:03:52.070
isn't enjoyment, then we're all doing the wrong thing for the wrong reasons why it is pleasure. And if it isn't pleasure then what is it? But there is an educational aspect involved, presumably. And that also is what we're here tonight to be involved in. You will
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have a wide number of choices of wines and perhaps some words ought to be said about how to go about and join them. I think that's to the point. I think it's also fair to say that while we're involved in this wine tasting that degree, it
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can be this really should be a dialogue. It should not be a question of me standing here and saying, okay, this is what you ought to like. And for these reasons, I think that we ought to do is communicate with one another as to what your
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concerns are at the wine and what answers I can possibly provide. It's a dangerous thing to to go forward on the basis of generalizations on any subject. You, I'm sure are well aware of that. It is also perhaps simplistic to say that uh wine is something
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that you can contend with on a very short course basis. One of the delights of wine is that it can go on for a long period of time and there's a good deal that you can learn the years and enjoy over the years, as your knowledge
00:04:54.510 - 00:05:14.850
expands. But the basics are simple, they're really quite easy to grasp and one that should not cause any problem to anyone. Let's look at it this way and say that there are at least three major aspects that will encompass all the types of wines. Three characteristics
00:05:14.850 - 00:05:33.080
that you can learn here just this evening. That will allow allow you to put in place the wines that you have tonight, Any other wines that you might encounter at any one time? Let's begin and note that those three things are color and context and condition
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of wands. That isn't just a clever rhyming kind of business. It really does make sense after all, in terms of color, there are after all, only red white and rose wines. How many of you have seen a blue wine? I think you'll agree that that's it.
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Pretty simple and yet does encompass all the possibilities. Red white or rose is, let's take a look at the question of condition. A line is either in its natural state as are those who have examples of here this evening or it might be altered in some
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special way, such as fortified wines. Those you might think of in terms of sherries, ports, that sort of thing. And a final third category into this condition would be sparkling wines. So there are only three possibilities natural or fortified or sparkling. And finally, context again, there
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are only three possible ways or times in a general sense in which you use wine, they would normally be and parity for something before outside of the meal, just having some friends over or they've been at the dinner per se. And that's what most of your
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wines are here this evening, actual dinner wines. Or the third possibility is that they would be dessert wines. Normally those sweet wines that you say for the sweet part of the meal. So you can see that in general outline, it's really quite simple and all the
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wines you will have here this evening will fit one of those categories. I invite you as I move around on the tables here this evening. If you have any questions to try and post them to me and also to pose any sticklers, you can in terms
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of a wine that you think might come outside those three categories. And I think uh, well already know how that one will turn out Now. Where does one begin and try to learn about why? I think you learn, you begin at home. I think you begin
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with your own American wines. That would not be a very unique course after all, since 90% of all the wine consumed in this country comes from this country. When you consider living here in Washington. And seeing the wide representation of foreign wines that are available, you
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might not have that impression, but America as a whole drinks almost all of its wine from its own vineyards and the Principal vineyard area, Above all, of course is California could deal more than three quarters of all the wine produced. Excuse me, consumed here is produced
00:08:03.115 - 00:08:17.705
in that one state. And that fact is perhaps even more significant when you consider that there are over 20 states which have commercial wine crops very small. To be sure that California is so far out ahead of the rest that I think if you're looking for
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the place to begin, you clearly begin at home and that means California and there are very good reasons for doing that. First of all, California offers an entire range of choice. They virtually are no lines made in the world that do not have their counterparts and
00:08:34.730 - 00:08:54.280
many will insist their superiors here in California. So choice is, there is no limitation. California can produce virtually anything you would possibly want in any of those contexts before, during or after a meal that I talked about. It is also true that California offers you something
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very good in terms of a fair price. I think if you're looking around here at your shops, you'll see that well representative. But I think most important for where you begin is the simplicity. The logic of the California system. We can all cook with the labels.
00:09:10.630 - 00:09:23.470
For example, if you take a look at any one of these bottles of wine here tonight and it speaks to you first place, not in a foreign language, but also the system is very, very simple for naming. There are again, only three possibilities, wines will be
00:09:23.470 - 00:09:41.840
named after varieties of grapes those wines are normally thought of as the premium, the very top product of the California vineyards. Some examples that you already have out before you now. And our tasting pinot chardonnay. I have another one over here. A Silvana Riesling Now, they're
00:09:41.840 - 00:10:01.530
named after individual grape types Silvana in that case, Sharp. Then there's a second larger category, much larger. The generic wines, general purpose wines named after historic winemaking areas and other parts of the world. And they are the wines that most of us use most of the
00:10:01.530 - 00:10:16.740
time with greatest pleasure. Perhaps you're gonna have a fine example coming up among the reds we mark before we're gonna go whites roses and reds and amongst the reds, you're going to have several beauties, but in the generic class, you'll have the hearty, burgundy, so called
00:10:16.750 - 00:10:32.830
for my own table. That's the regular red wine that I keep them home. And I think it's a grand one and I would expect that you'd be equally pleased. But that's an example of a generic type. Now, there's a final small category and perhaps a growing
00:10:32.830 - 00:10:48.720
one called proprietary wines. So those are those are wines which are named after names that the owner of the vineyard King self conceived. There will be one example, at least that I know of tonight. And that's a line by paul Masson called Baroque, But I'll feel
00:10:48.890 - 00:11:12.410
any questions you have about these individual appellations for these lines as we go through. For the most part simply recognizes the beginning, California. Wine labeling system is perhaps the simplest, most intelligible of all and makes your getting into wine that much easier. Now you all have
00:11:12.420 - 00:11:26.900
one I think in front of you and I thought I might just give you one moment or two of of instruction as to how to go about tasting these wines. Of course. One can simply take up a glass of wine like a glass of water or
00:11:26.910 - 00:11:42.895
if you prefer a glass or something stronger and simply knock it back. That's been done. And there's nothing really wrong with that. But on the other hand, wine is resume simply something to enjoy and savor and appreciate its part of the food process. It's part of
00:11:43.035 - 00:11:57.015
sitting down socially and eating, contemplating what you're doing. It isn't what you call a quick carry out kind of food or drink. It's something we like to spend a little time with. Also, it should be remarked, you spend a certain amount of money on it, not
00:11:57.015 - 00:12:14.120
a great deal relative to spirits, but still it's something you put an investment in and should be safer. And so in getting your most out of a glass of wine. Do this simply take the well, let's let's take a modification of the old railroad sign about.
00:12:14.120 - 00:12:32.390
Stop, look and listen and say stop, yes and consider this wine. Look at it and then perhaps do several other things. First look because a wine's color and clarity will tell you a great deal about it. This may not seem apparent necessarily tonight, right from the
00:12:32.390 - 00:12:47.800
first, but as time goes on, you'll get to know what individual wine is light and be able to anticipate a good deal about their condition and flavor and so on. Then, uh, use your nose and the wines. Those who are in this business for a long
00:12:47.800 - 00:13:03.270
period of time say that perhaps 40% of the pleasure to be derived from a glass of wine is involved in its scent, not just in its taste. So take a little time to, to really consider what is called in the trade. The nose, the bouquet perhaps
00:13:03.270 - 00:13:16.550
more elegantly when you take the wine in your, in your mouth, keep it on your couch for a little bit. Don't just throw it right right to the back and down as you would a glass of water, a glass of beer. They all have their places,
00:13:16.560 - 00:13:30.095
but wine asks to be considered a little bit. Now there's some tricks you can do with all this if you want to get more elaborate in terms of expanding your appreciation, your taste for the wine and I'd be glad to demonstrate all of that, but perhaps
00:13:30.095 - 00:13:50.370
not right over and into the microphone, but as I circulate around with you tonight. I'll show you a few of those if you are interested right now. The tasting is are remarkable for tonight is going to involve three basic categories of wine in terms of color
00:13:50.380 - 00:14:04.720
and they are served in the order that you would normally serve wines at a dinner party that is whites and then roses. And then read that's considering that you are going to plan a dinner party with three wines and you may, no one may do very
00:14:04.720 - 00:14:19.530
nicely all the way through or perhaps it's a very special occasion and you want to do six, Who knows? But at any rate, the normal order is to go from the lightest color to the darkest color and to go from the driest wine to the sweetest
00:14:19.530 - 00:14:34.060
wine. So that's the way we set them up here tonight. And that is the normal progression. Let it be said that in all these rules or guidelines more accurately that I have suggested. They are only suggestions you make up your own mind of how and in
00:14:34.060 - 00:14:51.380
what ways and what forms you want to use one. But these are suggestions that at least derived from two or 3000 years of people trying the same things and it's probably wise, at least as you begin and wine to respect what's going on before and on
00:14:51.380 - 00:15:03.600
that basis. Having done it then to say, okay, man, that's not for me, I'd rather do it this way, but most people do like to have, let us say a red wine with a steak. And most people like to have a white wine with oysters. On
00:15:03.600 - 00:15:17.890
the other hand, if you've really got a thing for red wine with oysters, well that's your thing and that's great. But the suggestions are just that and perhaps will help us to move on. How can you learn more? Perhaps as we go on? Well, the first
00:15:17.890 - 00:15:33.280
thing obviously is to continue to taste wine, not just at events like this, but at other occasions in your own home, at restaurants as using the excuse for for another party, something of that kind. There are also more academic ways to go ahead and learn more
00:15:33.280 - 00:15:47.900
if you want. For example, the California Wine Institute offers a very short course by mail, which I took as much as 10 years ago and still think that I profit from and that's not something very hard to do and it's free. But for tonight, the main
00:15:47.900 - 00:16:03.420
thing we can do in terms of learning about wine together is is for us to talk together. So if I may intrude on your individual conversations tonight, I will by moving around through the room and seeing what is on your mind in terms of wine. I
00:16:03.430 - 00:16:19.050
hope you enjoy all these and as I say, don't hesitate to ask questions. Are there any questions I can take right now before we move on to something else. Yes, sir, as California solve this problem as far as the storage of wine and had a few
00:16:19.050 - 00:16:36.830
years ago with the taxation on the question of the gentleman right here is, has California solved its problem with respect to storage of wine and taxation? I think what he's referring first. The answer is yes. Uh but the, I think what the gentleman is referring to
00:16:36.830 - 00:16:57.520
is this, that there was California legislation which taxed a vineyard owner on his entire inventory each year, which worked against his keeping California wines on the property for a long period Time to give them more aging. This is a problem that was recognized and has been
00:16:57.520 - 00:17:12.370
dealt with and now the taxation is on a single year basis and not upon the entire property and it does allow for better aging of California wines. That's particularly important. As you know sir, in the reds, whites are normally held on the property for a long
00:17:12.370 - 00:17:35.080
time anyway, most whites are concerned in 3-5 years. Uh In fact the burgundies were just a mixture of what I mean, the burgundies, California mercury's, I don't think I ever really matched. And you know, they used to use the excuse that they couldn't storm because it
00:17:36.620 - 00:18:01.480
and they pay tax on every year. I noticed that I noticed that one of the better some of the better red lines California would be very good to demonstrate you don't have any, You're saying that there is not a California burgundy present, Do you have a
00:18:01.480 - 00:18:17.630
contribution to that one? The answer is Charles that we try to give a broad selection, hoping that you'll get interested enough to go and get more because we can't possibly represent everyone in every. Were you able to hear that, sir? That the response is that of
00:18:17.630 - 00:18:32.800
course we're representing the entire California wine industry must give the widest representation and we we hope that these are represented enough for an entire group to go on in their interest with one. I think you would agree it would be impossible for us on these occasions
00:18:32.800 - 00:18:59.780
to bring all the ones that one might wish. I think you'll find that doesn't answer your questions. Unfortunately, we just didn't have any an inventory to bring tonight. And I agree with him, we agree with you entirely. The question here was why no cabernet sauvignon, which
00:18:59.780 - 00:19:15.420
maybe California's best red wine. The answer is we didn't have any inventory. When this one went forward, we do have the ruby cabernet, which you will find is the is a great excuse me as a wine developed from a grape at the University of California Davis,
00:19:15.430 - 00:19:31.840
which is a cross between cabernet and I believe that Corinne, great and it is derivative and you will find good similarity there. I would agree, however, that the aristocrat among California wines is the cabernet, I regret that it's not here for you tonight, any other questions.
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Well, when you have a little more wine in you, I know your courage will rise and dialogue and get going a little bit more. Have a good time with these and I'll be around to answer your individual questions if if I can have.